Seisia

Monday 13^th June: By the grace of God and the skill of Tony, we survived last night. Early evening there was tide against southwest wind and in the rushing current Nysa was literally doing 360’ circles. The monohulls were like ice skaters, gliding helter skelter. ‘Wombat’ and ‘Shilling’ behind us came close enough for the owners to almost shake hands, and were insidiously creeping closer to us. Occasionally our circle on the GPS would be just slightly bigger and then suddenly with a wayward movement around 9.30pm we knew we were dragging and it was us getting far too close to the monohulls. Pulling up the anchor was a strategy in itself as the spinning had it under us and once it was dislodged the current put us right between ‘Wombat’ and ‘Shilling’. As we moved sideways between them, Tony expertly forwarded and reversed just sufficiently to keep us central - I could have touched them if I stretched. Owners came out to say a friendly hello, but of course were really there to fend us off if needed. Upon regaining control we had planned to motor further forward to re-anchor but the large cargo ship ‘Trinity Bay’ also happened to arrive at this time and at a fast pace went past the jetty and towards us. So until it stopped and slipped back against the jetty, we manoeuvred with difficulty between the yachts and fishing boats – we could not just sit and idle in one spot due to the tide/wind/current effect. Luckily it was a near full moon, as many of the local boats do not have anchor lights and it would have been impossible to see them. Our trusty spotlight though was also needed. My heart simply stopped beating during all of this as I dashed from side to side making sure we were clearing each boat. Plus it was very cold. Once we knew the barge was securely berthed we anchored knowing it was too close to the jetty to allow sufficient space for the ship to turn and leave. A radio call to ‘Trinity Bay’ confirmed they were not leaving till tomorrow night so the skipper was happy for us to remain in our position and then move in the morning.  Around 11pm we retired to bed but whereas competent Tony slept, I nervously kept checking everyone’s swing until about 2.30am. The whole episode was very draining.

"Trinity Bay" unloading at Seisia

Last Friday Tony had found a channel of water past the sandbar skirting the beach – we had considered moving there then but were too indecisive. Now we were decisive and just after 7am motored over the sandbar and relocated – as I reminded Tony the benefit of a catamaran is to go to shallower waters where monohulls can’t!

In the afternoon we walked around Seisia, which is an attractive well kept community. The locality was settled by inhabitants of Sabai Island around 1948 after a tidal surge reduced the landmass. There is a monument to Mugai Elu who was chairman of Sabai at this time and oversaw the move and re-establishment of the community. He was a highly respected leader who in his lifetime dived for trochus, was captain of a trochus and pearling lugger, a corporal in the WW2 Torres Strait Infantry Battalion and church deacon.

‘Wombat’ left at lunchtime and 3 other yachts arrived. Most of the yachties then meet at the Caravan Park for a BBQ – there were 16 people including us: one couple from Maitland NSW and ‘Landin’ from Gosford, otherwise from England and America and all doing the rally to Indonesia. From there some plan to join a rally to Malaysia, some will self tour Asia, others will put their yacht onto a cargo ship to go through the Red Sea to the Mediterranean (to avoid the Somali pirates) and one boat is off around Africa. Also meet Greg who runs gulf and island fishing charters in the 20 metre power catamaran anchored amongst us.

Chris hard at work writing her journal

Tuesday 14^th June: Shirley graciously lent us her car and use of her washing machine this morning. Took the opportunity to also shop at Bamaga supermarket that had some items I had not found at Seisia. Bamaga is about 8kms inland.

While at Shirley and Ken’s we meet Russell Hubbard, the Cairns locksmith who flies to the area for 1-2 weeks a month – he covers the mainland communities and islands, flying by helicopter to the furthest out. Russell has had some wonderful experiences and we would love a job like his that gives this opportunity.

Shirley then had lunch with us on Nysa and I excitedly showed her the patchwork items I had made so far on the trip. Shirley is incredibly talented in a number of crafts and it was she who encouraged me to pursue patchwork lessons. Before leaving for Bamaga, Shirley had given me some appliqué patterns and material. I was able to show her how I had made a carry case for a lap table from these.

4 of the monohulls left this morning to cross the gulf and 3 new ones arrived.

What an idyllic location for the Church at Seisia

Dinner was at Shirley and Ken’s with their friends Trish and Steve who have lived and worked at a nearby community for a number of years – it was a very enjoyable evening.

On our return to Seisia the water was calm for the first time in a number of days, which was a great asset getting back onto Nysa in the dark.

Anchorage at Seisia

Wednesday 15^th June: the calm conditions have thankfully continued and south-easterly winds should return in the next few days, allowing us to continue around the Gulf. 3 monohulls left.

All the locals we had meet at Seisia and Bamaga have been incredibly yachtie friendly and helpful. It is also a mix of traditional and modern worlds eg. A young islander man stands at the shoreline fishing with a spear while listening to his ipod.

The sunsets have been brilliant – each night different depending on cloud cover.

Thursday 16^{th June}: 1 catamaran and 2 monohulls left this morning for Horn Island, so the anchorage was looking very empty until 1 catamaran and 3 monohulls arrived. The water is becoming clearer and blue again so we may be able to use the desalinator soon. Daily trips to fill water and fuel containers is very time and energy consuming, though we are grateful for how convenient it is here.

Wreck in Seisia harbour

We now have FM radio and CD music – though Tony installed our new CD/radio player weeks ago, only today was it connected to speakers. This is great as I have missed music.

Friday 17^th June: the winds are again south-east and a nice strength but we need to wait for the right tides during the day to round the mainland into the gulf - apart from needing clearance in some very shallow areas, the current needs to be going with us. Apparently the current is so strong that even if motoring, forward progress is difficult against the current. I just hope the wind strength does not increase by the time we leave.

However this does give us more time with Shirley. Ken is currently away with work so the 3 of us had dinner at the local Fishing Club, which Nysa is anchored in front of. The DJ played a varied mix of music but we did manage a few dances, which is always enjoyable, even wearing rubber-soled shoes on a concrete floor. His lighting though was the best I have ever danced under.

Tropical sunsets are not to be missed

Today’s mail also brought a new ignition switch for the hotplates and material I had ordered via the internet – poor Tony patiently listened while Shirley explained the intricacies of materials and sewing techniques to me – she is keen I commence a quilt in blocks, and I may consider that once home.

Today 1 catamaran and 2 monohulls left – 1 new monohull arrived. Obviously not going around the gulf like us.

Saturday 18^th June: 1 monohull left and we were the only non-local in the anchorage until 2 monohulls arrived late morning. With Shirley we visited Red Island, which is only about 100 metres from the Seisia jetty. The anchorage is between the beach at Seisia and Red Island, and I have been wanting to explore the island all week. It has low hills covered with long grass and a variety of short trees. Late morning was low tide and we walked along 2/3 of one side. Unfortunately there was a lot of rubbish brought in by the tide, but apart from the need for a clean up, it is a lovely island and I hope to be able to return and explore more. One small section of beach was composed of a myriad of small shells – similar to Shark Bay in WA on a small scale. We had a picnic lunch and as we left Red Island Shirley and I were fortunate enough to see a good size spotted stingray leap vertically out of the water, turn and dive back in – it was amazing!

We then made our farewells as we plan to leave tomorrow- there is no consensus with the various tide sources, but if the timing is wrong we should be able to find an anchorage somewhere on the coast as the forecasted wind is not to bad.

Tony has commenced our blog: http://sv-nysa.blogspot.com. To date it only has the beginning of our trip, but does include photos, and will be added to.

Sunset is again magnificant, the water is calm and all is tranquil. We are rested and hopeful the trip will continue well???