Cairns to Cape Flattery

Sunday 1st May: Well we are finally away. Almost 2 years after buying the boat, and more than 18 months hard labour every spare minute by Tony, we motored out of Bluewater Marina at 7.15am. The past week has been exhausting with packing, unpacking and final preparations. One needed part did not arrive on time, which meant Tony had to do last-minute modifications, and the desalinator was only finally operational 1800 last night, producing good tasting water today. A light southerly has brought us north to Low Isles off Port Douglas at 1330 – an easy first day of motoring while we settle in. Tony is currently surveying the bottom of Nysa, while still in safe waters to do so. Then up the mast to ascertain why the main sail is sticking, but all could be much worst!
Monday 2nd May:
Not as good a start as yesterday - woke to rain though still calm. More unfortunate was Tony’s discovery that the starboard (right hull) water tank was leaking – a split in the fibreglass that will not be repairable in the distant future. Not sure how much water we will lose, however purchasing the desalinator is just so much an even better idea now. This morning it produced 20 litres of beautiful water to top up our port (left hull) – 20 litres is our average daily consumption (washing clothes and dive gear is extra), so we will produce this each day we are travelling (as ocean water cleaner) with the plan to then have a full tank when unable to use the desalinator. The main negative of the leaking tank is that our weight will not be distributed evenly over the two hulls, but this is something we can adapt to. Further delays included a slipping alternator belt that needed tightening. Then during the wet conditions and unexpected discoveries, Tony slipped and had his first ‘injury’ – a gash below the left knee – more will no doubt eventuate. We were soaked getting the main sail up, but motor sailed throughout the morning with no further problems apart from Zowie having an ‘toileting accident’ inside the boat – mmm. After lunch the sun came out and the wind increased (though the weather man had forecast decreasing) and we were able to enjoy a very pleasant afternoon sailing. However once the motor was turned off we became aware of a knock, knock, knocking under the saloon floor – my anxiety increased, thinking that there was a major breakdown happening so soon in the trip and which coast guard would be the best to contact. However on inspection it was only the exhaust pipe vibrating – the sealant had worn so a bit of padding was the solution. Though 20 knots, the wind was behind us and the sunshine on the water was beautiful as we cruised past the rainforest touching the sea. Arrived at Hope Island, south of Cooktown at 1700. This is our fifth visit to Hope (in varying boats), a small sand island, but the first that we had the place to ourselves. Tony had planned to shorten the exhaust pipe under the boat to reduce drag by floating under the deck on the kayak – however the waves did not allow enough room for his head so sunset drinks replaced that idea! I also completed the patchwork table runner I commenced in March for our coffee table (upon our eventual return) – very pleased as it was much more involved than I anticipated! I also appreciate greatly the lessons I had in the months prior to leaving, as I now have the confidence in attempting a form of hand sewing I enjoy and can easily do while travelling – first success with a craft after many attempts with others!
Tuesday 3rd May:

well the weatherman proved wrong and the wind did not abate – sufficient rocking overnight to lose a solar light. Left early, sailing north pass the now low level vegetated ridges and hills, surprisingly green still after the wet – our past trips have all been later in the year when the landscape is very dry. The wind slowly dropped to 15 knots in the afternoon – 10 to 20 knots behind us is pleasant sailing. The exercise pedals made their first appearance. I am not sure the effort produces sufficient benefit though. Anchored at Cape Flattery 1700, very calm with a magnificent sunset. Watching the water can be mesmerising – looking for a splash or break in the water that may be life normally hidden below. Still too early for whales, but crocodiles are now a possibility, while dolphins and fish are always a welcome sight.
Wednesday 4th May: We have stayed overnight at Cape Flattery twice before but Tony would like to spend the next few days exploring the area more. Enjoy the chance to sleep in. Tony climbed the mast again to sand some rough spots still impeding winching the sail. When he dropped a spray can in the water, I had the chance to finally prove it is worthwhile having a net easily accessible on the back deck, so another of my ‘ideas’ has proven its worth. To fulfil Zowie’s desires, we did a long beach walk around the bay – a shock to the legs but quite stunning. Visited the barge area for the nearby mineral sands mine, and inspected a beach shack and house on the hillside – both now derelict which seems criminal considering the cost of building them and the wasted million dollar views of the bay with Lizard, North Directional and South Directional islands on the horizon. The bush is healthy and with wattle, grevillea and other flowering trees, quite pretty. The dinghy ride to and from the beach was my first attempt at operating the dinghy – not perfect, but not too bad!
Thursday 5th May:
A very low tide enabled us to walk the beach in the opposite direction towards the headland. The vegetation was different to the more inland area – patches of mangrove and stands of paperbarks surrounding large soaks from which fresh water meanders in small streams down to the salt water. At the end of the beach we climbed old tracks up the hillside ridges – vegetation again suddenly changed to low heath, but more variable was the geology. Rocks could be bright orange, then white quartz, to volcanic black, to multi-coloured conglomerate.
The view was lovely – white, white sand and blue water. Tony stated that he felt this patch of coast was a gem, reminiscent of Lake Pedder before drowning or Whitehaven Beach in the Whitsunday’s. Being remote saves it from the crowds. Apart from a trawler sleeping during the day, Nysa is the only boat. People can camp on the beach after a 3 hour 4WD drive from Cooktown, and one group of avid fishermen are currently here.

Friday 6th May:

Chris & Zowie enjoying a beach walk

Increasing winds and swell meant my second night of little sleep. I am paranoid about dragging – I know we are securely anchored and during the day am more than happy to leave Nysa for hours, confident she will be in the same place on return. At night though, I fear we will drift onto rocks or out to sea in the pitch black, even though rationally nothing has changed with the anchorage since day time. I watch the star constellations through the hatch above the bed, thinking how they would alter position if the boat moved more than a reasonable swing. I can only hope my fear becomes more manageable as time goes on.
With strong winds today we rested. Apart from housekeeping and sorting, I commence a new patchwork and Tony begins to install a new light above the kitchen sink.
We are pleased that the solar panels and wind generator have been sufficient to power the fridge, desalinator, computer, DVD, inverter and lights. Also instant hot water showers are so much easier than boiling the kettle as we had to do on ‘Two Up.’
By late afternoon the wind was dropping so we plan to head north again tomorrow. We ended the day with another beach walk (finding 2 golf balls and a matchbox car in good condition – amazing what you can find) and then sunset drinks on the back deck while listening to radio ABC news – can I pray it just stays as good as this!

Paperbark swamp at Cape Flattery

From here on is all new coastline for us – unknown anchorages and places to see. It is uncertain when we will again have internet reception, so next contact may be delayed.