Mount Aldophus to Seisa

Monday 6^th June: last night we watched a lovely sunset over the ocean. This morning we awoke to the weatherman predicting 20-25 knots for the next few days. Since the forecast is usually less than what we actually experience, we decided the risk of 30 knots was sufficient to cut short our visit on Mt Adolphus Island. We were secure there, but if the wind was high for the remainder of the week, there is more to do on the mainland. Left 9.30am and although already 20-25 knots, the waves were quite manageable. Saw 2 monohulls exist Albany Pass and then continue onto Horn Island.  We rounded York Island, which is situated approximately 50 metres from the tip of Cape York, and anchored in the adjacent bay at 1130am. In the next few hours 4 monohulls joined us – 3 from England – with the wind hitting up to 35 knots. The bay however is reasonably calm, and we can see Horn and Prince of Wales Islands (in the Torres Strait island group) in the distance.

Mt Aldolphus Island anchorage

Tony is very tired and needs a few rest days – the wind has been too noisy for a good night’s sleep.

Last night we spoke to Tarrant who unfortunately had tools and equipment stolen from his rental vehicle while working in Brisbane. This is an upsetting expensive setback.

Tuesday 7^th June: we had planned to walk to the Tip and along the adjacent beach this morning, but with consistent gusts blowing 44 knots (approx 90 kms) we decided to stay on the boat. Surprisingly the 3 monohulls from England left and headed to Seisia approximately 30kms away – obviously used to extremes of weather. The other small wooden yacht moved closer to the land. More surprisingly, presumably local people are still travelling out to the open ocean in dinghies!

York Island on the left, tip of Cape York on right.

I’m very impressed with my pegs that securely kept clothes on the safety lines during this wind. Also pleased with my food stocking – for 5 weeks we have eaten well and are only now resorting to tins and dry food. Once we do reach Seisia we will restock the best we can.

By mid afternoon the gusts were spasmodic and down to 30 knots, so we went to the beach. There were a number of 4WDs with people visiting the Tip. Amazingly 2 men stood waist deep in water fishing – apart from the crocodile risk, large sharks also live in these waters!

The beach is a few kms long with a beautiful rocky headland called Bay Point at the opposite end to the Tip. At low tide the wet sand is covered with the trails of molluscs – you could find the small shells about 1cm long (possibly whelks) at the end of each trail. I find it interesting that some beaches seem to ‘specialise’ in one particular life form: Margaret Bay – stingrays; Shelburne – starfish and now here, molluscs in shells.

Just prior to sunset 2 large catamarans entered the Bay.

Low tide at "The Tip"

Wednesday 8^th June:  overcast, showery and windy still. The other 3 yachts left early morning.

We received an email from Clare, Tarrant’s girlfriend, with a scanned copy of a Centrelink letter stating if I did not submit certain documents by today my mother’s pension would be cancelled. I was distraught. 2 years ago when sailing Nysa from Brisbane to Cairns I had numerous difficulties with Centrelink trying to sort out my parent’s entry into residential care and the changes this meant to their pensions - again when we had very limited phone and fax access. Centrelink must be psychic and knew I was in a similar situation again. Nor was I expecting this, so did not bring any of my parent’s documentation with me. Luckily though I was in telephone contact today and after 2 long phone calls, they say the matter has been sorted – unfortunately I have heard this before from them and things weren’t. I can only hope.

With this dilemma hopefully clarified, we headed to the beach to walk to the Tip with the other tourists. From the ridge we could see where we had sailed around Albany and Mt Alpholphus Islands. Spoke to one tourist who, as many do, had driven up from Cairns in 3 days to visit the Tip and now was going to drive back just as quick – they miss so much beautiful country up here. Nor have we seen anyone walk the long beach in front of us. Just drive to the car park, walk to the Tip, take a photo, and leave – a bit sad but everyone has different time available to them. Zowie had her photo taken at the Tip and at least she has walked the beach.

Miserable weather at "The Tip"

Thursday 9^th June: still dismal weather. Tony climbed to the top of York Island, 180 metres high in 15 minutes. The island is a large rocky outcrop covered in grass tufts and small shrubs – at least no spear grass or green ants. At the top the view along the coast was apparently worthwhile. At a cairn someone had left a notebook and pencil in a plastic bottle, but unfortunately the bottle had broken and the writing was now illegible. Needs replacing by someone who is aware of this fact before they do the walk. Tony found me on his way down, progressing much more slowly and about two-thirds the way up.  Before descending we sat and watched the continual line of people walking to the Tip – the numbers each day had increased and today there was literally buses. 21 years ago we were a day’s drive from the Tip when we turned around because we could not cope with the crowds then. 7 years ago Tony and I did finally do the drive to the Top, purposely in November to avoid the crowds – it was great, we had every campsite and the Tip to ourselves. I’m not sure we could return to land travel again, unless it was very remote.

View from the top of York Island

After lunch we left for Seisia – the overcast weather has affected our solar panels ability to provide power, so though 20-25 knots we motor sailed to charge the batteries. Though windy the sea was fairly calm west of the Tip. Passed Possession Island where a monument marks the proclamation by Captain Cook of England’s ownership of the east coast of Australia. Arrived about 5pm to find the 2 large catamarans and 4 monohulls that had stopped over at the Tip, plus fishing boats. We cannot believe how still this anchorage is and it is 6 weeks since we have had so much company. We spoke to Murray, owner of the catamaran ‘Shirazz’, a 39ft Fontaine; they and the other yachts are waiting on good weather to cross the Gulf to join the rally to Indonesia from Darwin.

Friday 10^th June: surprisingly ‘Shirazz’ and the 10 metre Sea Wind catamaran ‘Truansea’ (great name) left during the night, although the forecast for the western gulf is 30 knots over the weekend.

Met Beth and Bone from the monohull ‘Splinter’s Apprentice’ who have been sailing the world since 1998. They have been travelling with the other 2 English monohulls since Brisbane and are not impressed with the noisy, windy Eastern coast anchorages.

Upon landing on the beach to obtain some groceries we sighted a 2 metre black snake having difficulty moving up the wet slope back to drier land. Eventually it succeeded and we both headed in different directions. The new supermarket is expensive but well stocked and easily accessed from the beach.

"The Tip" and Albany Passage (background) from York Island

We were delighted to have friends Shirley and Ken for dinner on Nysa. Ken is the school principal of Bamaga  and surrounding communities, while Shirley is the Diabetes Educator. They are half way through Ken’s 5 year placement and both really enjoy living here. We were invited to take Nysa camping with them over the long weekend but we need to restock and reorganise.

Just as twilight was dying a monohull arrived and anchored near us.

Saturday 11^th June: Tony is suffering from painful gingivitis requiring analgesia and did not sleep well. Hopefully our new supply of fresh fruit, including pawpaw from Ken and Shirley’s garden will help.

Met the owners of the newly arrived monohull ‘Landin’, a 46ft Hunter – Kevin and Trish are from Gosford NSW and have sailed from Sydney to the Whitsundays for over 12 years. This year they are doing the Indonesia rally. Trish was booked to have a hip replacement in October after the rally, but due to increasing pain over the past weeks she has rescheduled for early July (will fly home from Darwin), planning to rejoin the rally 2 weeks after. Their 2 sons Matthew and Aaron are with them, so the 3 men will do the initial section. Tony raised with Trish the distinct possibility that she may not be able to manage flying and boating for a lot longer than 2 weeks –she seemed unaware of aftercare limitations and recovery expectations – but she feels unable to postpone the operation.

Safely at anchor at Seisa

Another monohull, a 47ft Beneteau, known to Kevin and Trish arrived – ‘Wombat in Sydney’ is owned by an American couple who have been criss crossing the world for decades and are currently off to South Africa.

With light variable winds and strong currents all the boats wander in different directions. The water is murky and weedy so we are unable to use the desalinator. To obtain fuel and water from the shore requires quite a bit of effort – jerry cans into the dinghy, park on the beach, carry the containers to the tap on the jetty for water, and the petrol station for fuel is about half a km away. We have a trolley but it can only take one jerry can at a time so we will be doing a trip every day we are here. The main difficulty is the weight of lifting the full jerry cans into the dinghy and then from the dinghy onto Nysa – even Tony admits it is hard work.

The caravan park on the beach allows yachties to use their laundry facilities, which is another help. 

We have been yearning for takeaway so visited the Caravan Park kiosk for dinner (impressed there was vege burgers). We had been asked over to ‘Landin’ for after-dinner drinks but on the way the outboard motor on the dinghy died. Luckily we are all anchored fairly close to shore and Tony rowed first to ‘Landin’ and then back to Nysa – also really fortunate they had anchored close to us as the current made rowing more difficult.

‘Landin’ is planning to leave with the other 4 monohulls to cross the Gulf together. All these yachts are in beautiful condition – well loved and cared for.

Sunday 12^th June: though the wind is only 5-15 knots, little sleep for me as Nysa went around in circles and the dinghy tied to her side splashed and sploshed all night. Tony slept better but woke feeling unwell; the gingivitis is improving but he has neck and back pain from the heavy lifting in awkward positions. I am concerned that he just does not stop – always working.

It is another overcast cool day requiring us to resort to the generator to boost the batteries.

Tony worked all morning on the outboard – reason for problem never became obvious, but after cleaning and checking everything it worked. We were just thinking about lunch when the tide changed and boats started swinging in all directions, including our dinghy now attached to the back of Nysa with 2 ropes. This haphazard wayward movement went on until everyone had settled into a new position. And then, in a split moment, we had a problem. At some stage the dinghy went to the side of Nysa and a rope became jammed between the hull and rudder – not good. Tony was unable to free the rope with a hook. Very mindful that a crocodile is known to inhabit this area, he made a grab hold with a rope and laid on his side on the bottom step. With one arm twisted behind him to hold the rope, he leant out over the step and freed the rope with his arm submerged to the shoulder. He was amazing – I continually am awed at his abilities and tenacity. Unfortunately this effort made an ill man only feel sicker and he was forced to rest.

Dennis and Janet from ‘Shilling’, a 43ft Oyster, visited for afternoon tea. They left England 12 years ago and have sailed from Alaska to Mexico and the Pacific. Entered Australia via Bundaberg and headed north to join the rally to Indonesia. No plan to see Australia – with our strengthening dollar and the weaker pound, Australia is too expensive to spend extended time here. After cruising around Asia, to avoid the Somali pirates, they will place ‘Shilling’ on a cargo boat to go through the Red Sea to the Mediterranean.

Ended the day with Tony feeling slightly improved and a walk along Seisia Beach. 7 years ago Tony and I were walking along this beach when we met a yachtie loading water containers into his dinghy. We had looked out at his yacht in calm water with a beautiful gold and red sunset behind it and thought that cruising may be something we would do one day. The sunset tonight is again magnificent, but the romance of sailing is all an delusion