Sailing North: Lloyd Bay to Portland Roads

Tuesday 24^th May: yesterday ended peacefully with us watching dolphins and turtles from the back deck. Unfortunately today we just avoided a potential disaster that was my entire fault. First I stepped on a small hatch in the galley and it collapsed under me – and I thought I was losing weight! We then motored the 10km across the bay to the landing for the barge that brings supplies to Lockhart River Aboriginal community (another 10km inland). A wonderful lady we know was visiting the Community this week and had agreed to meet us at the landing with our mail and the spare part that had not arrived prior to us leaving Cairns.

Earlier this morning the small Lockhart barge had travelled out to the Bay entrance and meet up with a cargo ship – a crane was used to move items from the ship to the barge – I imagine this would be a very difficult manoeuvre in rough weather. It was now returning. We anchored in 2 metres of water but I did not recognise on the depth sounder that the bottom was covered in large rocks. The anchor snagged immediately and could not be recovered when the error was quickly noted. Luckily the tide was coming in, for as we swang the depth above those rocks was only 70cm in places. If we had hit a rock there could be major damage to the hull or rudder – catasphrophic in this location. Tony quickly dinghied into the shore to pick up our items and on his return we started manoeuvring. Crocodiles are regularly seen at the landing so there was no way Tony was going to swim down to free the anchor. We thought we would have to cut the anchor to free ourselves but with beseeches to my brother and Nysa, it suddenly released and with great relief we returned to the beautiful Orchid Point. If we had had to cut the anchor, we do have another 2 as backup, and could arrange for Tarrant or a friend to send a replacement on the barge – but not ideal to be without our biggest and heaviest particularly with the winds we have been experiencing. An emotionally draining close call.

Beach shack at Orchid Point

As the trip back was over an hour long, Tony started fixing the broken support on the hatch. Luckily the weather stayed calm, for the challenges I caused today were exhausting and traumatic enough.

Before sunset a group of dugongs appeared around Nysa, feeding for at least 30 minutes – absolutely amazing, so large and beautiful, snorting as they surfaced. I felt forgiven by the universe.

Wednesday 25^th May: Orchid Point is very scenic. The cliff face glows with the setting sun. On the river side the shore is lined with a different variety of mangrove – very tall and slender. On the ocean side is 5 beaches separated by enormous white and grey boulders, all with white sand and fresh water creeks. We do not want to use the bay water in the desalinator due to its muddiness, and we don’t know how long we will be here with the approaching High (which will bring stronger winds), so we filled containers from a creek for washing clothes. As we sped along in the dinghy a good sized fish suddenly leaped in front of us – at the same time we heard a loud bang on the side of the dinghy – another fish had leaped and hit us, then bounced off. Not a good day for that fish.

Orchid Point

As the swell worsened we moved Nysa further along the mangrove side of the point.

Thursday 26^th: Tony’s birthday – presents increased our DVD supply. We investigated the river mouth in the dinghy. The estuary is huge and scattered with substantially large mangrove islands separated by channels up to a km wide. Did a quick shore walk before returning to Nysa – heading into strengthening wind and waves made for a wet trip.

Tony also received a set of clippers and I was the first recipient of a haircut. The cut itself is fine but my pigtail did loss a 1/3 of its thickness – at this rate I may have to be prepared to lose it entirely.

More unfortunate was my attempt at clipping Zowie (who has her own set of clippers) – she looks like a very badly shorn sheep – really bad. At least she does not look in mirrors.

Orchid Point

The birthday dinner was dahl and homemade naan bread – both a successful first for me.

It has been nice to receive phone calls and emails from people as well – being remembered is a good feeling.

Friday 27^th: Orchid Point is a secure anchorage (providing nights of uninterrupted sleep) but the swell has been worsening every day and by this morning was tiresome.

We moved Nysa to the calmer river mouth between 2 mangrove islands.

In the afternoon we used the dinghy to further explore. There are areas of destroyed mangroves, presumably by cyclone, with new growth. Other sections are like stands of forest - the tall slender mangroves, 10-12 metres high, are quite remarkable. These large islands appear to be made up of mud trapped in the roots.

Tony had planned to give Zowie a toilet stop at a small clearing on one of the islands we are anchored near – he changed his mind when I pointed out the slide mark of a crocodile.

We plan to continue north tomorrow as the wind is meant to be lessening to less than 20 knots.

Beach opposite Lockhart River mouth

Saturday 28^th: last night the boat did not move at all – the river was calmer than being in a marina and it felt unnatural to be so still in a boat. On entering the Bay just after sunrise however the swell was definitely still present there, so it had been a wise move. The winds were 20-25 knots (approx 40-50kms) and for the first 3 hours the trip was rather rough with waves to 2 metres hitting us on the beam (side). After passing Restoration Island (where Capt Bligh and crew had a rest from their dinghy after the mutiny), we turned more northwards and the waves were behind us. Restoration Island is just off Chilli Beach, a popular campsite for inland travellers. The next small bay had fishing boats anchored and a smattering of new houses on the hillside. After the next headland we entered the bay of Portland Roads in time for lunch. Portland Roads only consists of a few houses – Lockhart River Aboriginal Community would have the nearest services.

Portland Roads anchorage from the old jetty.

Pre-world war 2 the jetty at Portland’s serviced the inland mining communities. After the Battle of the Coral Sea, just to our east, the jetty was extended to receive naval vessels, who brought supplies to initially built and then maintain the airfield at Iron Range. Thousands of Australian and American service men were based at Portland Roads and the airfield, from where sorties to PNG were made. Apart from glimpses of rusting equipment in the rainforest, there is no evidence of this past war effort. The jetty is totally gone except for a few posts. The airfield at least is still used by the Lockhart River Aboriginal Community.

Portland Roads boat graveyard

We had to wait till high tide late afternoon to visit the ‘township’. Walking the last few metres through tidal mud was like quick sand. Most houses appear empty or are holiday rentals. Though scenic and lush with vegetation I would find it difficult to live here – would need a shop at least!