Cape Flattery to Lloyd Bay

Saturday 7^th May: well the weatherman was wrong – it was pleasant in the morning but 20-30 knot (approx 40-60km) winds in the afternoon. Manageable as behind us except for the swell: Chris + swell = seasickness not helped by medication. After lunch I succumbed to the lounge only to be told by Tony that we were going to head west to an island for the night. By this time we are sailing at 7 knots (we are happy to usually obtain 5) and the best seasick remedy occurred – 5 large dolphins suddenly appear and surf the waves right next to the boat. Absolutely brilliant. They stayed with us until nearly at Howick Island, where we found shelter. Low tide and rocks prevented a trip to the beach. Spontaneous fish/bird feeding frenzies would erupt in one patch of ocean to just as quickly cease and re-appear a short distance away. The mainland coastline comprises long white beaches with  hills behind. This area has numerous small islands and reefs. Lights are situated frequently to guide the large ships – one near us is also a helipad – a strange structure sticking out of the water. During the night a number of tankers cruise quietly past – just lights in the black. Tony promises if they veer off course they will run aground before hitting us.

Sunday 8^th: ‘what a difference a day makes’ - the winds have dropped and we can only motor sail. We pass Watson Island where Mary Watson’s body was found after she fled Lizard Island – mangroves and sand. Arrived Ninian Bay for lunch.  We are now out of internet and mobile range until probably Lockhart River. While Zowie longingly gazes at the nearby land, I finally have time and no boat movement to set up my modified weight routine – not as energetic as a pump class but will hopefully give me some exercise and maintain flexibility while away – also much better than those horrid exercise pedals Tony uses! Mid afternoon we head to the beach, where Tony finds a recent crocodile slide just a short distance from where we landed. Tried to walk around the headland to another beach but eventually too steep – did find a lure in good condition if we ever need to fish. Took the dinghy to the other beach but too shallow and rocky to land – good campsites are visible, so ? road access. Drinks on the front deck watching large turtles surface – very pleasant. At night the stars are sharp, bright and blanket the sky.

Monday 9^th: a diver’s dream but not a sailor’s – totally flat water and no wind, so had to motor past Cape Melville, which is just a mass of boulders, onto the Flinders Group Islands in Bathurst Bay. Arrived mid afternoon and anchored in Owen Channel between Flinders and Stanley Islands – picturesque +++. The rocky islands have a low growth of green woodland or heath, with patches of mangrove or white beaches along the shorelines. The bay and islands are much bigger and more scenic than I anticipated.  Tony had hoped to make these islands on our previous trip north on ‘Two Up’ in 2008. Winds of 30 plus knots meant we, and 20 other yachts, spent 3 weeks at Lizard Island instead. So arriving today is a bit of an achievement. Dinghied over to another yacht anchored further south near the sand spit approx 1.5kms away – ‘Our Odyssey’ was purchased in Ballina NSW and the owners are now travelling to Darwin to participate in the rally to Indonesia in July.

Approaching the Flinders group of Islands.

At 3am a southwesterly change brought rain and we awoke to the alarm as Nysa swung to the new direction. We found the cockpit ceiling covered in dragonflies.

Tuesday 10^th: calm and flat water has returned. While Tony did some engine and boat maintenance I made bread for the first time this trip and for the new oven – not bad considering Tony accidentally turned the gas off 2/3 way through cooking, and then opened the oven door to see if he had relighted it!  I also did a few loads of washing. In past decades of camping and boating I have always hand washed, but lugging the weight of the water and wringing towels and sheets is hard on the hands, in which I already have some arthritis. So, after buying Nysa I bought a mini plastic twin tub, and to my surprise, it actually worked off the inverter, washed and spun dry well. It just felt a bit surreal to be using an electric washing machine in such surroundings.

Wednesday 11^th: visited the National Parks camping area across from where we are anchored. It is well equipped with rainwater tanks, toilet, shelter and a table – we know yachties without a desalinator refill from the water tanks. There are also information boards with interesting history of the islands. We attempted to climb the nearby rocky hill but I quickly ‘spat the dummy’ – finding footholds amongst overgrown long grass and being eaten alive by green ants is not enjoyable to me. One major difference between Tony and myself is that he loves bushwalking off the beaten track and I do not. As it is low tide we walk around the rocky foreshore to the entrance of the channel instead. Much more pleasant to be able to see where your feet are going, not be continually bitten and actually enjoy the view. Passed a well in the rocks used by the original Aboriginal inhabitants of the area and unusual rock formations.  We return via the base of the hill along the edge of the inland  mangroves that give Tony some bush exploration.

At all times I am very aware of the possible presence of crocodiles. Tony is bemused ( and others would probably laugh) that I carry Tarrant’s old aluminium baseball bat for protection. On walks it doubles as a walking stick, which is handy.  Being more practical in such remote locations, whenever we leave Nysa we always carry a personal EPIRB (positioning beacon), satellite phone, basic 1^st Aid Kit and, if other boats are in the vicinity, a handheld radio. The dinghy also has a depth sounder that is useful.

Apart from 4 other boats that have overnighted on the sand spit, we have had the channel to ourselves. Late afternoon I spot a dinghy racing around the southwestern point of Stanley Island heading our way. As it approached it became evident as the Water Police dinghy, which then sped past us over to a small beach on Stanley opposite to where we are anchored. Through binoculars we could see people being picked up, and then the boat zoomed past again. As we have heard no distress calls on the radio, we expect this was a pre-planned pickup after a bushwalk across the island. Hopefully it won’t give Tony ideas.

Thursday 12^th: sloppy night: current and increasing wind in opposing directions, noisy swell slapping against the boat, awoke to alarm twice as we swang. Tony had planned to explore the channel coastline by dinghy today but the waves were too choppy. Returning to the sand spit we saw large turtles, stingrays, numerous varieties and sizes of fish in and jumping out of the water, and a sea eagle. At the spit we walked a little inland until we found the site of 4 graves and presumably the old well. In the 1800s there was a British garrison stationed here and later a trading post for the beche-de-mer and pearling industry, until replacement by prawning and supply ships made it unnecessary. Tony was disappointed he could not find the boulder with H.M.S Dart chiselled on it – this was a ship that surveyed the region initially. The area was just too overgrown. Lunchtime we motored around to Stokes Bay on the northern side of Stanley Island – much more protected from the strengthening southerly winds.

The weatherman is predicting strong winds over the weekend, so we will be here a few days at least. Though we can hear the wind being detected on our instruments, the bay is very sheltered and calm.

Friday 13^th: the full length of the bay appears almost walkable via beach. We head north today. The vegetation and beach composition is very different to Flinders. Here is good size healthy trees, occasional palms and pandanus – overall real bush. The beach is composed of broken coral and shells – must be some great reefs out there. The occasional stands of mangrove are also large trees with great root systems. We walk to the northern tip near Cape Flinders, returning just in time to get the dinghy over the fringing rock reef with the outgoing tide.  We will have to plan future walks on the incoming tide. We scoot along this side of the island in the dinghy. The information board at the National Parks area on Flinders Island had stated there was a boardwalk here to Aboriginal artwork but no obvious location as yet; nor the route to the nearby hill where there was radar base in WW2.

Discovered on return to Nysa that there are still some toileting issues with Zowie – however she is great company and gives us plenty to smile about. She is very confident in the dinghy but still hides either on a shelf or behind the clothes basket when travelling in Nysa, reappearing spasmodically to check we are still present and obtain a reassuring cuddle from Tony.

Saturday 14^th:  a line fishing boat joined us in the bay this morning. It has a full size twin tub washing machine on the roof, and obviously very strong pegs as no concern with the washing literally blowing horizontal in the wind there as well. A Jabiru circles the boat, perhaps after an easy feed.

In the afternoon we dinghied to a smaller beach further south along the bay on the narrowest section of the island. The beach here is sand instead of coral, surrounded by sculptured limestone rocks, very different to the sandstone where we are anchored. We walked across the island to the Owen Channel, arriving at an inlet enclosed by mangroves. How a wheel with a tyre in good condition got through the tightly meshed roots is anyone’s guess? Climbing a small rise we could see a super yacht anchored at the sand spit on the other side. Unfortunately we decided to keep heading up the rise to return to the dinghy – my prior mumblings became full whinges as we pushed through long grass and a variety of trees, again resulting in green ant bites and socks full of spear grass burrowing into our skin (we never thought to bring our garters). Even Tony found the going rough.

Each morning has been fairly calm with increased winds in the afternoon. Tonight it is blowing 29-38 knots (approx 60-80km) with a stronger wind warning predicted for tomorrow afternoon. Though I would like to be somewhere with internet and telephone range, it appears we may be here longer – we are quite comfortable and the anchor appears secure.

Sunday 15^th: awoke to another calm morning but 30 knot gusts by lunchtime. The problem with staying somewhere in good weather to look around is that by the time you are ready to leave, it may be bad weather. This is now our dilemma. We will wait and see what eventuates today, as we can’t make the next anchorage in half a day.

It is common to see fish gliding over the water surface (some look like they are running on their back fins) or jumping vertically quite high – this morning we found a good size fish on our front trampoline! During lunch we watched an enormous turtle swimming quite close to Nysa, seemingly unconcerned by our presence. Tony, as always during our 30 years together, cannot sit and relax, so continues with either maintenance or improvements to Nysa – this is his hobby!

At about 9pm, while discussing that we should have stopped the wind generator before it was too noisy to hear the movie, a gust of 45 knots (approx 90km) at the peak of the high tide sent us dragging. Tony remained his wonderfully ‘cool, calm, collected’ self, while I took to nail biting and trying not to think of every possible bad outcome. It took 2 attempts to motor back in against the wind and for the anchor to re-set. Having the spotlight on the mast always helps, as did the near full moon. At 11pm we settled down for a fitful night sleep.

Monday 16^th: a rough night but we stayed put. Again the winds are down to 10-20 knots this morning but the strong wind warning is persisting for the week so we expect a build up of wind again this afternoon. We cannot explain this calm morning, windy afternoon/night phenomena that occurs here, but with 30 plus knot winds forecasted again, I now face it with dread. Overall we are still in a good anchorage, but sleep deprivation will continue for the next few days at least.

Just on sunset 3 burly big trawlers that had been anchored further along the bay came and anchored 50 metres right behind us. With the whole side of the island to anchor, they chose to park themselves exactly where we would run into them if we dragged again – a hit they would hardly register, but demolish us. I cannot understand if their rationale was simply rudeness, stupidity, arrogance or non-caring. We could not contact them by radio so decided to move Nysa further along the shoreline.

Tuesday 17^th: the winds again reached 45 knots which produced enough noise to disturb sleep even though we were anchored securely. By 5.30am the wind totally ceased and the shallow water alarm kept activating from debris in the water as we drifted with the incoming tide. We had anchored in closer to the fringing reef last night not expecting to be becalmed this morning, so there was the potential to drift too close - I kept watch so Tony could sleep a bit longer as I have the ability to nap during the day, while Tony finds this difficult to do. The setting full moon cast a bright pathway along the still water to Nysa and the dawn was peaceful. 3 other trawlers that must have been out working in the wild weather came in at different times and had the decency to anchor a good distance away.

In daylight we can see that the 3 trawlers that evicted us last night are of slightly different sizes. The largest is anchored and the others tie off to the one in front in decreasing size. We have named them: Papa Bear, Momma Bear and Baby Bear. There are 2 ropes, one above the other, between each trawler and the guys use these to “walk” between the boats.

Today Tony has finally realised how poor my long distance vision is without glasses, and I have to admit his hearing is definitely worsening!

Tonight the 3 trawlers who arrived this morning have left to go prawning, while the ‘3 bears’ settle in for another night off.

It is not as rough yet as previous nights, so hopefully the full moon rising over this beautiful island is signalling a more peaceful night and improving weather?

Wednesday 18^th: a messy night of intermittent winds 4 – 40 knots, so broken sleep again as I checked our drift when the wind died, and jumped to various alarms. Yes, I am a definite worrier, particularly at night. I lay in bed unable to control my pounding heart, ears straining to decipher the different sounds and whether I need to react or not. So it is easier for me to just stay up when conditions are uncertain, resting on the lounge. Basically I am just scared and this is how I manage it. It is less disturbing for Tony also.

 As I laid down for a nap at 7am after a dead calm previous 2 hours, the wind picked up and was a continuous 20 – 48 knots till about 4pm. 48 knots is almost cyclone 1 category, and it has definitely been our worst day of weather to date – white caps cover the bay and it was too rough for a trip to the beach. This is totally different to all our other days here. We had hoped to leave tomorrow morning and do at least a half day travelling (as Tony has found an anchorage), but it won’t be happening now.

Last week I twice mentioned to Tony that as we were staying in one place for a while, and the water was clear and flowing, we should operate the desalinator to top up the water tanks – I was told not necessary as we had plenty of water. Last Monday I mentioned the water was getting low and we should ‘make more’ – again Tony declined. Last night we ran out, so the desalinator worked today with very churned up water, having the job of totally refilling the tanks! I was frustrated that my logical suggestion was ignored (as often happens) and Tony says he has learnt a lesson – mmm.

Tony, who cannot sit and relax, has today prepared a window frame for painting, installed 2 smoke alarms, a holder for the hand held radio, and commenced preparing where the new CD player is to be placed! He really needs to find a good book.

Around 4pm the winds lessened to 15-30 knots; you suddenly think it is calm and then read the wind meter and it is still blowing 25 knots – all comparative. During the day the ‘3 bears’ dragged – luckily no one was behind them. They stayed in their new location until sunset when unbelievably they again moved behind us, though at least a bit further away this time but still close enough to hear their generators. I cannot believe their audacity or if they are just playing ‘silly buggers. We decided not to relocate, as the anchor has held through the 40 knot winds. Irrespective of the wind, I wonder why they have not fished for at least the last 3 nights, though the smaller individual trawlers have gone out.

Thursday 19^th: weather improving. Managed a short walk on the beach. The ‘bears’ did go prawning tonight and a navy patrol boat came in, but anchored a good distance away.

We can occasionally obtain Cairns ABC radio but more often reception is from a PNG radio station – the music is fine but we fail in translating pidgin or language.

Friday 20^th: last night Tony offered to respond to the alarms so I could have a rest. First he tried from bed, but ended up resorting to the lounge when the wind decreased and we were again drifting more than swinging. His answer this morning was to move Nysa further away from the reef. We suspected that our anchor was caught on ‘something’, explaining why our holding was so good, and it was stuck. 30 minutes of manuvouring had us dislodged and we moved further down the bay, off another beach. The Strong Wind Warning ceased in the afternoon, so we plan to leave tomorrow.

Saturday 21^st: we were both able to sleep in bed throughout the night. The morning was calmer than expected – left Stanley Island at 6.30am with insufficient wind to even motor sail at times. Princess Charlotte Bay is so big we were unable to see the mainland, though passed a number of reefs and sand cays. The sky is overcast for the first time, and atmosphere hazy.

Just after 1pm we spotted white caps moving towards us from the ocean – the forecasted 20-25 knots definitely hit, with gusts up to 30 knots. We were definitely sailing now at 8-10 knots giving Tony an exhilarating time at the helm. As usual I was of no help whatsoever as I just can’t get the concept of sailing into my head. Sped past our planned anchorage – the reef could not even be seen and it definitely was not calm water.  With our much faster than anticipated speed we arrived at Morris Island, the next best anchorage, at 5pm and anchored just before the winds increased to 40 knots – and according to the weatherman the Strong Wind Warning was no longer valid! Morris Island is really only a small-vegetated sand cay, a ‘god forsaken place’ in Tony’s words, but it did provide secure anchorage. The vegetation consists of grass tufts, silas stalks, 1 tall coconut palm tree and a few other palms shooting up. The coconuts and silas were planted last century by the British Admiralty to provide for shipwrecked crew. Anyone needing to knock down a coconut was meant to use the long sisal stalk (though surrounded by needle sharp leaves). The sisal proliferated while only 1 coconut tree survived, though now having its own offspring. There is also an old pearling/trochus diver’s grave near the palm but we did not have the chance to explore.

A little bit of discomfort with the noise and boat movement but hopefully winds will ease overnight.

Sunday 22^nd: Tony had nightmares about being stuck at Morris Island for weeks, so with winds down to 15-20 knots we decided to do a half day dash to the next anchorage at Night Island, and avoid the possibility of being caught by stronger winds again in the afternoon.

Hilly mainland can now be seen through the haze. Sail pleasantly pass large reef areas that all have lights but must have been a hazard before the days of maps and GPS when the size of reefs would not have so easily been known.

Night Island is much larger than Morris and is mainly covered with mangroves. The wind was increasing to 25 knots as we arrived but eased off during the afternoon. Tony nicely gave Zowie a shore break and returned very excited about the variety of bird life he saw – had to resort to the Bird Field Guide to identify a number. Much of the mangroves have been destroyed by? past cyclone.

We have been travelling now for 3 weeks and it seems like longer for both of us. Tomorrow we hope to reach Lockhart River, which is more protected for the forecasted increasing winds (again!!!) and we should have internet/phone access.  We are both very tired and I remain unsure about how worthwhile this trip and the attached anxiety really will be.

Monday 23^rd: a good night sleep and easy sailing initially in 5-15 knots, though a bit swelly, which meant I felt queasy. We spotted another yacht also travelling north in the distance. This is only the third we have seen since leaving Low Isles, and they all seem to be in much more of a hurry than us.

At 1230 we turned into Lloyd Bay where Lockhart River is situated and a gust of 30 knots just hit us. Our trip into the bay then proceeded at a much quicker pace with 20-30 knot winds rocking us. I do not see the point of listening to the weatherman or looking at weather faxes when they are rarely correct! Tony handled the changed conditions wonderfully and we anchored safely near Orchid Point. We are now about 2/3 of the way up the Cape.