Love River to Weipa

Sunset over the Love River - note 3 juvenile ospreys on the dead branches above the nest.

Saturday 13^th August: this morning 5 helicopters buzzed us – unmarked but identical - ? mining or just rich tourists?

The 3 juvenile ospreys spent the day sitting outside the nest on branches.

Late afternoon Tony and Zowie braved the waves generated by wind against tide to have a look at a nearby derelict concrete shed. Behind the structure was an old overgrown airstrip and a fresh water billabong - ? past history.

Abandoned shed on the Love River

Sunday 14^th August: No matter how beautiful the country and how privileged I feel to be here, just sitting in rivers, even though each one is different, is becoming the same routine every day. As we are not going to proceed any further south, I suggested it would perhaps be more interesting to now head north and spend time around the Thursday, Horn and Prince of Wales Islands in Torres Strait. This proved a catalyst for the vocalising of Tony’s hidden feelings. Although he has always stated he was happy just to see how far we managed to get, he now expressed his great disappointment that our plans to reach the Kimberley had not eventuated and he considered returning north as a failure. The weather has until recently not been conducive for us crossing the Gulf, particularly with sailing neurotic me who panics in the dark, but now he wants to consider it - he is not keen to return to Cairns. Seeing Tony so sad is devastating. I have cried so many tears since we left Cairns, and though I have persevered, I feel I have let him down.

During our walk of the southern beach we found more osprey nests and 2 unknown ‘jelly’ creatures. One was a emerald green solid blob, a good hand span in size, washed up on the beach. The other was 2 round clear soft masses inside an empty baler shell. There was a black dimple in the centre of each and when touched, they deflated - ? egg sacs? I returned all to the water and hope they survive.

Sunrise over the Love River

Monday 15^th August: left the river as the sun was rising in the east and the full moon was setting in the west – quite lovely. The high tide was higher this morning than when we entered but we still only had 70cms under the keel in some spots. In the distance we could just see possibly a motor sailer heading south – made me feel worse.

Had an easy sail north to False Pera Head, 31kms north of Aurukun (49kms north of the Love River), arriving at 1pm. Even with the expensive fees (this is still Aurukun land), there were people camping here. Not sure if they are aware of crocodiles, sitting in their chairs on the waters edge fishing for hours, while a much safer rock ledge was nearby.

Beach at False Pera Head

Late afternoon swell from the west affected my nausea levels for the first time this side of the Tip.

Tony remains very sad and we discussed our options:

1. if we cross the Gulf now and venture west, we will not have time to reach the Kimberley and return to Cairns by the end of our leave in December. Instead we would sit out the Wet in Darwin or Gove. This would have major implications for our employment in Cairns, (which I really love), further restrict our diving opportunities and would necessate finding alternative income.
2. try and obtain work somewhere on the west coast of Qld and continue to the Kimberley in a year or two. Again, the implications are the same as 1 except for the income.
3. return to Cairns and hopefully either sell Nysa so as to afford another form of transport, or if not, try again in the future when we have the ability/attitude to travel faster.

We are a bit lost in limbo and unsure what to do.

Tuesday 16^th August: awoke to deep blue azure coloured water, flat as a pond. Meet the campers from Kempsey and had 2 questions answered:

1. The water is so clear on the beach that everything approaching through the extensive shallows can be seen so sitting and swimming is considered reasonably safe inside the small ‘harbour’ created by rocky outcrops on each side. There are also no mangroves on the foreshore.
2. They did not know about the camping fees. A ranger further north told them about this location and they just took the track off the road between Weipa and Aurukun – a 2 to 3 hour drive from Weipa.

This place is beautiful and a fisherman’s delight with large fish caught from the beach and easy dinghy launching from the shore. We walked along the next 2 bays south until reaching a muddy dark creek that wound behind a sand dune to the sea. Here were the tracks of 2 different sized crocodiles, from the beach to the creek – quite a distance over the sand dune and a log but obviously they preferred this “shortcut” to the easier ‘just swim the creek’. Spotted 2 shovel nose rays in the shallows on the return trip.

Tracks of a large crocidile walking from a creek to the ocean

We then walked the bush track along the northern beach which was remarkably well set up for campers – over a dozen shelters, 3 with tables, 6 toilets and 2 water tanks – but not well cared for. From some of the camps were access to tables with benches overlooking the water from bauxite rock ledges – we are back with the red rock. At the end of the camping facilities was a shallow clear fresh water creek.

It is appalling that such a beautiful accessible spot, which has had a lot of money spent to provide good camping facilities, is wasted. Lucky are the people who find it, and considering we had not stopped here on our way south, we are pleased we had a second chance to do so. The campers also recommended a river north of Weipa that we had not previously visited, so somewhere else different for the trip.

Burnt out campground at False Pera Head

Wednesday 17^th August: travelled a few kms in the dinghy to Norman Creek at the northern end of bay. Closed to the sea at low tide, it is otherwise as wide as rivers we have seen – what distinguishes a creek from a river?

This is another scenic campsite under casuarinas, though no facilities, and vehicles had driven here by the tracks left.

Beach north of False Pera Head

Late morning we attempted to sail to Boyd Point but the wind was too light.

We were surprised to see another catamaran heading south. Via the radio we found out ‘Blue Bone’ had recently been purchased in Brisbane. The owner from Kununurra had sold his old yacht and was taking ‘Blue Bone’ around the Gulf to her new home in Wyndham, where he had lived for 26 years. He had previously crossed the Gulf from Weipa to Gove in August in his prior yacht – it had been a horror trip caught in a storm with 40 knot winds and 10 metre waves. He was not going to risk it again. His experience caused Tony to reconsider the crossing the Gulf option.

Of course the wind improved as we anchored in Boyd Bay at 2.30pm.

Thursday 18^th August:  a day on Nysa still lost in uncertainty. Possible job opportunity for me in Weipa and one for Tony in Darwin - ? what to do?

Friday 19^th August: walked the beach, which was a brilliance of bright blue sky and green foliage against white sand. A small fire still crackled and flared on the ridge, fasinasting Zowie. Different beach combing, finding a footstool in good condition, and collected a piece of fishing net. On the tidal flats found a mollusc in a bivalve shell walking – the muscle foot extended out of the shell, pushing it over, moving in a ‘flip flop’ movement – just amazing.

Left at lunchtime for Weipa, motor sailing in the swell with light wind. Arrived at 4.30pm to 26 knot wind against tide, making anchoring in Roberts Creek just a bit difficult.  Then, while circling the anchor, we were hit by something unknown in the water - ? a passing log or rubbing against the chain. Will now need to beach Nysa while here to check there is no damage to the hull.

It has been 4 weeks since we left Weipa to go south – the time has gone so quickly even though we didn’t end up travelling far.

Saturday 20^th August:  restocked the larder. While we were away Byron caught a 3 metre marlin fish, weighing approximately 120kg, off Pera Head. He was rather tired after the effort of this unexpected catch - took a photo and kissed it goodbye.
Once back on Nysa I enjoyed reading newspapers for the first time in 4 months – simple bliss!