Love River to Weipa

Sunset over the Love River - note 3 juvenile ospreys on the dead branches above the nest.

Saturday 13^th August: this morning 5 helicopters buzzed us – unmarked but identical - ? mining or just rich tourists?

The 3 juvenile ospreys spent the day sitting outside the nest on branches.

Late afternoon Tony and Zowie braved the waves generated by wind against tide to have a look at a nearby derelict concrete shed. Behind the structure was an old overgrown airstrip and a fresh water billabong - ? past history.

Abandoned shed on the Love River

Sunday 14^th August: No matter how beautiful the country and how privileged I feel to be here, just sitting in rivers, even though each one is different, is becoming the same routine every day. As we are not going to proceed any further south, I suggested it would perhaps be more interesting to now head north and spend time around the Thursday, Horn and Prince of Wales Islands in Torres Strait. This proved a catalyst for the vocalising of Tony’s hidden feelings. Although he has always stated he was happy just to see how far we managed to get, he now expressed his great disappointment that our plans to reach the Kimberley had not eventuated and he considered returning north as a failure. The weather has until recently not been conducive for us crossing the Gulf, particularly with sailing neurotic me who panics in the dark, but now he wants to consider it - he is not keen to return to Cairns. Seeing Tony so sad is devastating. I have cried so many tears since we left Cairns, and though I have persevered, I feel I have let him down.

During our walk of the southern beach we found more osprey nests and 2 unknown ‘jelly’ creatures. One was a emerald green solid blob, a good hand span in size, washed up on the beach. The other was 2 round clear soft masses inside an empty baler shell. There was a black dimple in the centre of each and when touched, they deflated - ? egg sacs? I returned all to the water and hope they survive.

Sunrise over the Love River

Monday 15^th August: left the river as the sun was rising in the east and the full moon was setting in the west – quite lovely. The high tide was higher this morning than when we entered but we still only had 70cms under the keel in some spots. In the distance we could just see possibly a motor sailer heading south – made me feel worse.

Had an easy sail north to False Pera Head, 31kms north of Aurukun (49kms north of the Love River), arriving at 1pm. Even with the expensive fees (this is still Aurukun land), there were people camping here. Not sure if they are aware of crocodiles, sitting in their chairs on the waters edge fishing for hours, while a much safer rock ledge was nearby.

Beach at False Pera Head

Late afternoon swell from the west affected my nausea levels for the first time this side of the Tip.

Tony remains very sad and we discussed our options:

1. if we cross the Gulf now and venture west, we will not have time to reach the Kimberley and return to Cairns by the end of our leave in December. Instead we would sit out the Wet in Darwin or Gove. This would have major implications for our employment in Cairns, (which I really love), further restrict our diving opportunities and would necessate finding alternative income.
2. try and obtain work somewhere on the west coast of Qld and continue to the Kimberley in a year or two. Again, the implications are the same as 1 except for the income.
3. return to Cairns and hopefully either sell Nysa so as to afford another form of transport, or if not, try again in the future when we have the ability/attitude to travel faster.

We are a bit lost in limbo and unsure what to do.

Tuesday 16^th August: awoke to deep blue azure coloured water, flat as a pond. Meet the campers from Kempsey and had 2 questions answered:

1. The water is so clear on the beach that everything approaching through the extensive shallows can be seen so sitting and swimming is considered reasonably safe inside the small ‘harbour’ created by rocky outcrops on each side. There are also no mangroves on the foreshore.
2. They did not know about the camping fees. A ranger further north told them about this location and they just took the track off the road between Weipa and Aurukun – a 2 to 3 hour drive from Weipa.

This place is beautiful and a fisherman’s delight with large fish caught from the beach and easy dinghy launching from the shore. We walked along the next 2 bays south until reaching a muddy dark creek that wound behind a sand dune to the sea. Here were the tracks of 2 different sized crocodiles, from the beach to the creek – quite a distance over the sand dune and a log but obviously they preferred this “shortcut” to the easier ‘just swim the creek’. Spotted 2 shovel nose rays in the shallows on the return trip.

Tracks of a large crocidile walking from a creek to the ocean

We then walked the bush track along the northern beach which was remarkably well set up for campers – over a dozen shelters, 3 with tables, 6 toilets and 2 water tanks – but not well cared for. From some of the camps were access to tables with benches overlooking the water from bauxite rock ledges – we are back with the red rock. At the end of the camping facilities was a shallow clear fresh water creek.

It is appalling that such a beautiful accessible spot, which has had a lot of money spent to provide good camping facilities, is wasted. Lucky are the people who find it, and considering we had not stopped here on our way south, we are pleased we had a second chance to do so. The campers also recommended a river north of Weipa that we had not previously visited, so somewhere else different for the trip.

Burnt out campground at False Pera Head

Wednesday 17^th August: travelled a few kms in the dinghy to Norman Creek at the northern end of bay. Closed to the sea at low tide, it is otherwise as wide as rivers we have seen – what distinguishes a creek from a river?

This is another scenic campsite under casuarinas, though no facilities, and vehicles had driven here by the tracks left.

Beach north of False Pera Head

Late morning we attempted to sail to Boyd Point but the wind was too light.

We were surprised to see another catamaran heading south. Via the radio we found out ‘Blue Bone’ had recently been purchased in Brisbane. The owner from Kununurra had sold his old yacht and was taking ‘Blue Bone’ around the Gulf to her new home in Wyndham, where he had lived for 26 years. He had previously crossed the Gulf from Weipa to Gove in August in his prior yacht – it had been a horror trip caught in a storm with 40 knot winds and 10 metre waves. He was not going to risk it again. His experience caused Tony to reconsider the crossing the Gulf option.

Of course the wind improved as we anchored in Boyd Bay at 2.30pm.

Thursday 18^th August:  a day on Nysa still lost in uncertainty. Possible job opportunity for me in Weipa and one for Tony in Darwin - ? what to do?

Friday 19^th August: walked the beach, which was a brilliance of bright blue sky and green foliage against white sand. A small fire still crackled and flared on the ridge, fasinasting Zowie. Different beach combing, finding a footstool in good condition, and collected a piece of fishing net. On the tidal flats found a mollusc in a bivalve shell walking – the muscle foot extended out of the shell, pushing it over, moving in a ‘flip flop’ movement – just amazing.

Left at lunchtime for Weipa, motor sailing in the swell with light wind. Arrived at 4.30pm to 26 knot wind against tide, making anchoring in Roberts Creek just a bit difficult.  Then, while circling the anchor, we were hit by something unknown in the water - ? a passing log or rubbing against the chain. Will now need to beach Nysa while here to check there is no damage to the hull.

It has been 4 weeks since we left Weipa to go south – the time has gone so quickly even though we didn’t end up travelling far.

Saturday 20^th August:  restocked the larder. While we were away Byron caught a 3 metre marlin fish, weighing approximately 120kg, off Pera Head. He was rather tired after the effort of this unexpected catch - took a photo and kissed it goodbye.
Once back on Nysa I enjoyed reading newspapers for the first time in 4 months – simple bliss!

Archer River to Love River

The huge Archer River looking towards the mouth.

Saturday 6^th August: the shared mouth of the Archer, Watson and Ward river is a large very shallow estuary with many mangrove islands. Though secure Tony found our anchorage off Wallaby Island a bit rocky so we boarded the dinghy in the morning to find a better site. Came across a houseboat ‘Aurukun Fishing Charters’ and meet Geoff and Sue, both from Cairns but managing the operation during the Dry season. They provided the local knowledge of mudflats and sand banks. We surveyed their suggestions and then prior to lunch moved Nysa just pass the Aurukun boat ramp – it took an hour motoring but a much calmer location. Hopefully not more insects though.

Tony remains very tired and looks it – though he enjoys sailing, he has come to the realisation that he is not a  ‘just cover the distance day after day’ yachtie, even when he has a goal. Staying and enjoying each new place is more our pace, with short stints of travelling in-between. Of course in a yacht this means you don’t cover much distance and it is a very slow journey (as ours has been). Nor is he a sailor who rests – when not exploring he is fixing and maintaining so never has a lazy day.

Sunday 7^th August: Tony continues cleaning the deck. Geoff and Sue dropped in for afternoon tea. This is the first time they have managed the fishing charter, and will do so till mid December when they will take the houseboat back to Weipa to be put in the boat yard for the Wet Season. Most visitors have been Australian or from New Zealand, stay 5-7 days, at a cost of $680 per night  (Tony and I consider this good value compared to the camping fishing charters out of Seisia). They fly into Aurukun and fish from plastic dinghies in this vast river system with a guide. Breaks between charters have been a few days to 2 weeks.

A late afternoon walk was along a section of river that had been cleared in the past presumably for cattle, as there was a station here in the past. Large termite mounds cover the area and smoke from a large fire was in the distance. On our return we found that a 1.5 metre groper has taken residence at Nysa’s stern.

Wild fires are very common this time of year.

It is so calm that the moon and clouds are reflected in the river – quite beautiful except too many mosquitoes to enjoy for too long.

Monday 8^th August: telephoned Aurukun Council to inform them we were anchored off the ramp and to request permission to enter the community for some fuel and fresh fruit. The person I spoke to was not happy, as a written request is required before actually arriving. I explained we had not planned to visit and how appreciative we would be. I was told the Mayor would be informed that we had telephoned and we would be contacted if there was any problem. I just hope they won’t want ask us to pay for a camping permit - $50 per person per night and $20 per car/boat per night would be a dint in our savings.

Broad expanses of water lilies were found in freshwater sections of the river.

In the afternoon we spent 4 hours doing a 43 kms round trip up the Little Archer River and back in the dinghy. We had not travelled far before the water became brackish and eventually we were in clear fresh water. Frequent patches of purple water lilies, golden flowering orchids in the trees, various varieties of ducks and lots of bee-eaters added to its attractiveness. Sue and Geoff had told us that during the Wet the water level in the rivers is 2 metres higher and they were using fresh water in the estuary from the flow up to May.

Upper reaches of the Little Archer River

On the way back we stopped at an old cattle yard, now just posts and wire, with the remains of a ramp down to the water. The cattle used to be transported to market by boat. There was also a timber felling industry, with the trees being floated down the river as rafts to be loaded onto boats also. Another large fire was in the distance – Nysa is being covered in ash again.

Old cattle yards used to load cattle onto boats.

Tuesday 9^th August: awoke to smoke coating the river like fog. Walked into Aurukun, which was established in 1904 as a Presbyterian mission – last Friday was Aurukun Day when a re-enactment of the first minister arriving is performed at the boat ramp. The population is about 1200 and it is approximately a 2.5 hour drive from Weipa on 200kms of dirt road. The bush and river here is really beautiful country. From the ramp you look down the river to its mouth, where the sun sets right in the middle.

Aurukun landing

We passed the new town pool that was only recently opened. For only a few days did the community get to use their new facility before a group of young people, the youngest was apparently 8, went on a rampage through the town. Part of the vandalism included smashing the filters on the pool, which are too expensive to fix, so the pool is now closed indefinitely. Today England is also being vandalised by unhappy youth, so our society needs to ask itself many questions.  The immediate impact in Aurukun is that the involved young people, and the rest of the community, miss out on something that was eagerly awaited and enjoyed briefly.

Tony was a bit surprised to find the unleaded fuel was Opal, but really we should have expected that. The bowser is unattended – you are meant to buy a fuel card at the supermarket and then the amount of fuel you buy is charged to this. Back at the bowser, you insert the card to activate the pump for that amount – only it took us 2 trips to the supermarket to get this organised. The fruit we bought was not expensive but we were told general grocery lines are 2-3 times the price of Cairns.

On return to Nysa Tony either loss concentration, or had become complacent, but decided to wash the mud off his feet by rinsing them in the water from the back step. A large splash and a yell told me something was very wrong – the groper bit Tony and by the teeth marks circling his foot he was very lucky not to have lost half of it. It was a shock and a reminder that not being able to see anything in the water does not mean it is safe – this same groper had attacked our boat stick yesterday when I was washing it in the water. Luckily the gashes are not deep but I am concerned infection may occur. Tony is so lucky as gropers have been known to bite off digits and it could have just as easily been a crocodile!

The fishing charter group left this morning so we went and had a look round the houseboat in the afternoon. It sleeps 12 in single bunks and has a great upstairs outdoor area with a million dollar view, but with only 1 bathroom it could be a bit small if people did not get on – would very comfortable for 2 though.

Sue and Geoff then came for dinner. Geoff had spent the afternoon pig shooting with one of the policemen - the surrounding wetlands are good hunting grounds.

Zowie enjoying a much needed bath.

Wednesday 10^th August: ‘smoke on the river’ and 4 brolgas on the mudflats as we motored out of the estuary. Considering how expensive it is to visit this area, either camping or on the houseboat, we have been very privileged to enjoy its beauty.

No wind so it took 4 hours to motor 18kms south to the Love River. Unbelievably, as we arrived the wind and swell blew up, again making it very difficult for Tony to get into and out of the dinghy from our anchored position outside the river. Though the river itself has plenty of depth, the mouth is encircled by a sand bar that was too shallow to cross until high tide – so we sat and waited 5 hours. It was dark by the time we followed the route marked on the handheld GPS by Tony’s earlier reccy. It was a bouncy trip until we entered the river where calmness prevailed though we could hear waves crashing along the coastal sand dune – it has been a long time since we heard waves.

Chris at the helm.

Thursday 11^th August: it had been a nice surprise to have no insects last night but this morning I was awoken by sandflies! A 2 metre crocodile is on the opposite shore. We walked along the coastal sand dune to the mouth. The shallows extend a vast distance out into the gulf. There is no road access to the Love but it’s close proximity to Aurukun makes dinghy access easy – there are old campsites and quad bike tracks. The only rubbish is from the campsites. The beach is pleasantly clear of flotsam, I guess because fewer large boats venture this far south or the currents don’t bring it in. Recent turtle tracks lead to a nest not yet ravaged by pigs or goannas – hopefully it will be spared. The beach and river edge is home to a large number of hermit crabs, again in the best shells. In a tree near our anchorage is an osprey nest with juveniles.

Chris enjoying a beach walk

In the afternoon the wind again strengthen but came from the south straight along the river, so with wind against tide we had hours of choppiness and Nysa literally doing circles around the anchor.

Our radio reception has always been hit and miss depending on location. Whereas hearing PNG radio is not greatly surprising, tonight we had New Zealand?

Sandbars at the mouth of the Love at low tide.

Friday 12^th August: similar to the Kirke, the Love opens into a wide shallow lake but only about 7kms inland. This morning we travelled there in the dinghy. The Love is 2-3 times wider than the Kirke, and a large mangrove island is at the entrance to the lake. Unfortunately smoke from a distant fire stung my eyes making them difficult to open for the time we were at the lake. The lake is only navigatable at the top of high tide so we did not venture in. According to the Fishing Guide, there is a private dry season track to the upper section of the lake from which dinghies can be launched, and an out-station a further 1km upstream from there.

In the river were big purplish jellyfish – stranded ones were seen yesterday on the beach.

We returned to walk the northern beach at the entrance. 2 large crocodiles were sighted floating past on the out-going tide and the mud/sand flats are home to numerous hermit crabs, some also a good size. We could imagine ourselves somewhere very remote if not for the quad bike tracks.

The expansive reaches of the lower Love River

Early afternoon a small bat was fluttering above the water not far from our stern – it appeared distressed, dipping low to the water and frantically flapping to rise again. The 2 parent ospreys from the nearby nest then started to chase it, swooping down but missing each time. The bat seemed incapable of reaching the safety of the trees on the bank, and we lost sight of it as the eagles pursued it further down the river. Later I saw one of the osprey’s take a fish to the juveniles in the nest – I would like to think the bat did not end there as well.

Mid afternoon the wind again increased to 20-25 knots – seems to be a pattern but commencing slightly later each day. On returning to Nysa this morning Tony had put out a stern anchor so the ride was not as giddy.

Apart from a wasp attempting to build a nest in our bedroom, there have been no insects today.

Sunrise on the Love River

Smokey early morning on the Love River

Boyd Point to Kirke River

Looking south to Pera Head

Saturday 30^th July: after a calm week the wind suddenly hit 33 knots this morning and we thought that Byron might decide to abort his fishing trip. However a phone call from Sarah informed us that Byron had left at 4am (mad crazy fisher people) with friends, planning to fish first off Pera Head and then find us (not hard as we are the only sailing vessel in the area). To be closer for rendezvous, we decided to move to Pera Head, which is only the next bay south. In 30 plus knots the 6kms was a quick but not uncomfortable trip. Rounding the point we found the work platform and tugboat, so now know the location of the new wharf. ‘Sharp Shooter’ was nearby, methodically slowly cruising a specific area in parallel lines – probably surveying as part of the development?

Bryon and mates arrived late morning, with an esky full of large mackerel and our special delivery. They did not seem phased by the anticipated rough trip back to Weipa that should only take them about an hour, but I was pleased when the wind started to abate not long after they left. The boys told us that the new wharf will extend 2kms from shore so will rather obviously mark the landscape.

Freshwater billabong behind Pera Head

At the opposite end of the beach to the proposed wharf is a natural spring creating a freshwater waterhole surrounded by paperbarks full of birds. Campsites are evident. Small streams run down to the ocean – one is large enough to use as a safe place to cool off. On the ocean’s edge nearby is a small natural harbour protected by outlying rocks. Trailer boats could easily beach here near the fresh water – unfortunately a few too many submerged rocks to bring Nysa in.

By nightfall the tugboat, work platform and ‘Sharp Shooter’ had left while 5 fishing boats have anchored nearby, though one did go back out again. The wind has died to 0-3 knots.

Para Head is even lovelier than Boyd Point, but is not even mentioned in the cruising or fishing books we have. If not for meeting Byron we would have sailed right past it instead of now planning to stay another day – many thanks to Bryon for this and being our postman.

Beach at Pera Head

Sunday 31^st July: walked a short distance south along the beach and then took to the track on top of the northern ridge. The track goes to Boyd Point and then we think to Aurukun Aboriginal Community. The sides of the track have been recently burnt but a detour into the bush indicated this did not expend far. The view was surreal – white sand, flat turquoise water, blue cloudless sky, a light breeze and dolphins frolicking in the clear shallows. Poor Zowie did find it hard going, becoming very hot during the few hours it took to do the shadeless walk. Normally one to hate baths, she happily stood in the fresh water creek while being rinsed off and cooled.

Looking down from the ridge we had noticed 2 strange rock formations on the edge of the low tide mark – one close to shore and the other straight behind it further out. Investigating in the dinghy, both appeared to be heavily encrusted vertical posts, covered in unusual growth. My theory is they are the remains of an old shipwreck.

By lunchtime we were the only boat left in the bay. A large school of medium size fish gathered underneath our stern, and spent the afternoon zooming in and out. Near sunset a swooping sea eagle attempted to catch his dinner – a few misses but eventually caught 2 fish – this occurred right behind Nysa - wow!

Bauxite cliffs on south side of Pera Head

As the fishing boats returned Tony was able to catch up with Greg on ‘Glory-D’, a friend’s husband who has fished the Gulf for years and provided us with information prior to this trip. Greg is currently fishing for mackerel with 2 manual hand lines and 2 electric lines. It is hard work – early starts, returning to anchorage just prior to sunset, to then clean and fillet the fish. Without a deck hand at the moment, he is still working when we go to bed. He very nicely gave Tony some fish for his dinner.

We are surprised that of everywhere we have visited on this trip, our favourite spots to date (and both so different to each other) are only 1 day north and south of Weipa, which is somewhere we definitely never envisioned as being attractive in any way. Of course a faster powerboat would make the Pennefather and Boyd/Pera even closer.

Freshwater creek flowing from lagoon at Pera Head

Monday 1^st August: we leave Pera with not a hint of breeze blowing – the water was a pond. An hour later we are sailing well in 20-35 knot winds; by lunchtime the dropping wind required us to motor sail and by mid-afternoon motor only – a very changeable day.

4pm anchored in the mutual mouth of the Archer, Watson and Ward Rivers, about 50kms south of Pera. Aurukun Aboriginal Community is slightly further along one of the rivers.

Reading Jon & Jennifer Glaudemans blog, we discover they are now in Bali – we met them at Margaret Bay. All the other yachties we meet at Seisia would now be in Indonesia, while we are still in the Gulf – what can I say except we have had a lot of great spots all to ourselves!

Tony is keen to put in some long sailing days until we reach the southern islands in the gulf.

Tuesday 2^nd August: less wind so a nice morning sail in 20-25 knots but needed to add the motor in the afternoon. I can remember when we would never have considered voluntarily sailing in winds above 20 knots, but even 30 doesn’t really concern us here. This is because the waves on the gulf side of the Cape are more manageable with the wind coming off the land – I would still freak out on the east coast!

The bauxite hills are no longer evident – the coast is one long, sparsely vegetated sand dune.

The waters close to shore are unsurveyed from the Archer River south, and the cruising book we have has proven itself inaccurate already. This means a closer watch of depths and hazards has to be kept, and Tony is plotting our route as we go, filling in depths on the chart.

Arrived at the Kirke River at 5.30pm to find the tide was insufficient to allow entry and we were touching bottom – the tide chart & GPS tide are incorrect for here. We anchored just outside the new mouth where the river has broken through the coastal sand dune (the original mouth is about 2 kms south at Cape Keerweer), so Tony could do a reccy in the dinghy – due to the large swell and diminishing light this was very difficult. By the time Tony got back on Nysa dark was falling - he had found a route to the river entrance but we needed to wait for more water under the boat, which was not forthcoming in the next few hours.

Sunrise at Kirke River - Tony setting off to do a reccy of the entrance

Tony then experienced his first crisis – he stated he had had enough and no longer wanted to proceed south. Basically he was exhausted after a long day, a few nights of poor sleep and just the continued effort required. I convinced him to stay put for the night and to go to bed earlier than usual.

The lesson from today is that we can’t arrive late at a new anchorage that we have very little information on – we either do shorter days or give ourselves sufficient time for long stretches (wind permitting of course) – Tony agreed!

Wednesday 3^rd August: unfortunately much swinging activated the drag alarm on a number of occasions so again Tony did not sleep well. Arose at 6am with what appeared to be the high tide and there was thankfully no swell. Motored the short distance to the deeper water Tony found last night on the side of the sandbank at the entrance. Anchored there while Tony did a reccy of the river as the sun rose.

While I waited on Nysa there was a lot of growling and shrieking from the nearby bush - ? wild pigs.

With the incoming tide we now had plenty of water to enter the narrow river and Tony found us a calm spot where the mangroves commenced. There is no telephone or internet reception. Resettled and I enjoyed the view while washing clothes. Tony succumbed to a late morning sleep – a first ever event that demonstrates how tired he is.

Cape Keerweer is halfway down the western side of the Gulf, 160 kms from Weipa. It is always mentioned in the weather forecasts as the divider between the southern and northern gulf, so now I know where it is.

The Cape takes its name from the Dutch word meaning “turn back’ and was named by 17^th century Dutch explorers after being engaged in skirmishes with hundreds of armed Aboriginal warriors at this location that forced them to retreat.

It has taken us 6 weeks to travel from Seisia to here. Apart from extremely passionate fisher people, this area is apparently rarely visited as land access is restricted by geography and land tenure.  However we have seen quad bike tracks on the beach (possibly landed via a barge) and we are anchored off a campsite. The upper reaches of the Kirke open into a massive lake, which the fishing book “North Australian Fish Finder” tells us is a prime habitat for barramundi and other sportfish. I am very happy for them to stay there unfished. This book has provided better anchorage information than the cruising book of the gulf.

Nysa at anchor in the calm Kirke River

By mid-afternoon Tony felt a bit better so we undertook a short dinghy trip. Low tide with resultant shallow depths even for a dinghy prevented us reaching the original mouth at Cape Keerweer and from travelling very far along the river. We did criss cross the new entrance where a mass of small terns was feeding – they were not going to let us prevent their bombardment for a meal. Spied a dolphin and something bigger with a fin breaching. On the riverbank were a kangaroo and a small < 1 metre crocodile that was undisturbed as the dinghy approached very close – the markings on its skin were beautiful.

Thursday 4^th August: a calm night with no movement allowed Tony to sleep. On the morning high tide we dinghied to Cape Keerweer only to find the mouth of the river here no longer exists – it is now a broad land bridge of sand so there is only the one entrance, that where we entered. We are so lucky we did not follow the cruising/fishing book advice on Tuesday and travelled the extra distance to enter the river here. Did find a 40cm trumpet and 30cm baler shell – though sun whitened and barnacle covered, I marvel at the size of the molluscs which once lived inside.  About a km in from the old entrance were mooring buoys and a campsite.

This is the mouth of the Kirk River shown on the chart - now closed

We then motored in the dinghy about 5kms along the river, about half way to the lake, until shallow water became a deterrent – we are not keen to be stuck with an out-going tide. The river is lovely and different to others we have visited – it broadens as you go inland with semi-arid bush in the non-mangrove areas. The brief sightings of dolphins suggest possibly the smaller snub-nose river variety. 4 < 1 metre crocodiles totally unperturbed by our close proximity – question is “where is momma?” The number and variety of birds is wonderful: jabirus, beach bustards, pelicans, egrets, eagles, ospreys, hawks, kites and different smaller ones I can’t name.

Low cliffs line parts of the Kirke River

Early afternoon we were surprised to see a mast with sail stopped on the gulf side of the mouth. As the tide was now low we presumed it had run aground so Tony jumped in the dinghy to go and help. An hour later I was not surprised when he returned with David and Dennis Brown. We had meet David and Dennis in their trailer sailer  ‘Sandpiper’ at the Pennefather. Since then they had reached the Top, too early as we predicted, and decided they did not want to wait at Seisia for a few months until the winds were the right direction for going down the east coast. So they turned around and were heading back to Karumba. Unfortunately north of Weipa the drive shaft on their engine snapped so they are now totally reliant on sail only. This means they cannot enter the rivers where an engine is required to manoeuvre, so are stopping where they can find shelter on the coast. The afternoon passed pleasantly hearing of their adventures. They hope to reach Karumba in 10 days under sail. Both seemed very tired and not as enthusiastic as when we first meet – an incredible achievement though for their mature age.

If we don’t leave tomorrow morning, the next daytime high tide is not for 10 days. We would like to stay here a few more days but 10 would exceed our water supply – the river is too murky to use the desalinator and Tony is not impressed with the suggestion of washing us and dishes in salt water. Also, I do not want to leave the river at night. Though Tony is keen to do night sailing and cover longer distances offshore in deeper surveyed water, I become quite petrified at the thought of this – I even panic when he just wants to move a short distance in the dark. My fear of this is irrational but worsening, so I am increasingly more of a liability.

Friday 5^th August: We could see David and Dennis tacking south as we left the river. I am quite worried about them and hope all goes well for the remainder of their trip, which is going to be even  harder work.

Overnight Tony decided that we would head north and not proceed south. 3 main reasons: 1. it is a long way to go requiring long travel days which we find tiring 2.  the shallow entrances to the rivers require an incoming high tide to enter/leave. You leave one of the high tide but due to the distance to the next river, you arrive on the low and then have to anchor and wait, often in swell. 3. the murky water unsuitable for the desalinator so water supply could be an issue. Disappointing but rationale based on our abilities.

Still early morning water of Kirke River

So we sailed, motor sailed and motored back to the Archer River that is accessible all tides. Took all day. We will stay here till the tide times improve and then try to reach the Love River, which is between here and the Kirke. On sunset the winds increased 20 – 30 knots, so not a calm anchorage at the moment – I hope that David and Dennis are somewhere sheltered.

Weipa to Boyd Point

Wednesday 20^th July: a quick trip to the boat ramp for water was our first opportunity to see a bauxite ship up close. As we crossed its path, it’s massive size and speed was apparent though still over a km from us. I am grateful the dinghy engine did not stop mid channel. A loaded ship leaves daily, with 2 usually on the wharve at any one time. They arrive empty, sitting high above the water line and leave full, like an iceberg mainly submerged. Their movement within the river has Tony enthrawed. Tugboats assist the pilot in manoeuvring.

Rob dropped in for morning tea and to inspect our water desalinator. He and Aya are still setting their yacht up but with the limited space they only have storage for about 40 litres of water and are living on about 5 litres of fresh water a day – washing occurs in salt water and cooking currently on the shore!

Today is the 11^th anniversary of Tony’s mother’s death.

Ship loading terminal at Weipa Port

Thursday 21^st July: meet Karen, the Sexual Health nurse in Weipa, and her partner Patrick. Karen has worked in many remote locations over the Cape, and Rob is an engineer who has also worked in PNG and Sudan.

The boat ramp is often very busy with fisher folk. We stand out due to the bright yellow raincoats we wear (it is a wet ride to and from Robert’s Creek) and the fact we carry no fishing gear.

Red bauxite beach at Weipa

Friday 22^{nd July}: time to do the tax return. A friend reminded us that they are experiencing a very cold, wet, foggy winter down south. Meanwhile we have 31’C, no humidity and no rain – what I consider a perfect winter! The wind has also dropped and it is very calm.

Saturday 23^rd July: after my comment yesterday it did rain last night but just enough to wash the salt off Nysa.

With the calmer weather we were able to enjoy a walk along the foreshore along from the boat ramp and then took the dinghy past the wharves where bauxite rock is loaded into the ships. From there we crossed the river to where a new jetty is planned. This will facilitate the transfer of staff across to the proposed new mine south, close to the gulf coastline. Finished by exploring further down Robert’s Creek where we are anchored, which is longer than I expected, and full of bird life. Overall 5 crocodiles were seen today.

Low tide at the mouth of the Embley River, Weipa

Sunday 24^th July: One reason why Tony has been carting so much water has been his desire to give Nysa a wash – we have accumulated a lot of dirt on the deck while travelling but at least for today she is clean again.   One negative of the Gulf and Weipa is the amount of dust and smoke in the air that makes also keeping the inside surfaces dirt free a daily battle and affects my lungs as well.

Late afternoon we enjoyed a walk along the foreshore on the other side of the boat ramp and then were joined by Sarah and Byron, who brought dinner to share while we watched a brilliant red and gold sunset – something benefits from the smoke! Meet a few of their friends enjoying sunset drinks - one was a ex-policeman from Lockhart River who told us we weren't the first yacht to almost come to grief on the rocks off the ramp there.

Sunset dinner and drinks at Weipa

We really like the landscape of Weipa but tomorrow we leave and start heading south. After speaking to a number of people, Tony is keen to see this area.

Monday 25^th July: frigate birds spiralling in the thermals and booby birds roosting on the channel lights farewelled us. The seas were messy but it was a pleasant sail past white beaches and red bauxite cliffs. Tony is pleased with the new rigging of the sails. Arrived at Boyd Point, 30kms south of Weipa, mid afternoon. The new mine will be near here and wharves will be built from where ships will remove the bauxite. 1 large flat barge and an accommodation barge are here with a smaller landing barge, and vehicles can be seen on the cliff – presumably work has begun on preparing the site. A low-level fire is scrambling through the coastal bush - ? accidental or part of the clearing.

After a short beach walk north we watched another magnificent sunset and experienced swell for the first time in many weeks – the benefit of rivers and creeks is calm water. However here we have no insects, which is a definite plus of open water!

Sunset at Boyd Bay

Tuesday 26^th July: today is the 6^th anniversary of my brother’s death, which was the catalyst for the change in our recreational aspirations when I inherited his yacht – mmm!

Enjoyed a walk along the beach south around the Point and for a short distance in the bush, which is healthy and full of birdsong. No obvious signs of construction though a metal staircase has been built from the beach to a bush track, which facilitates access from where the barge lands.

Watched sharks chasing fish in the shallows – looking out across the water, the gulf is immense and definitely gives the impression of being somewhere different.

Bushfire at Boyd Bay

Wednesday 27^th July: in 3 hours we walked a total of 8.5kms along the beach north and back at low tide. The sand was pockmarked with the tracks of wild pigs. Yesterday and today we found turtle nests they had scavenged, with shell remnants. Though vegetarian I do support the culling of these pigs. Much of the beach was fringed with rock reefs not mentioned on the maps/books. The rocks were weathered into formations, often capped with oysters – in different areas they appeared like a field of gigantic mushrooms, the ruins of an ancient city and a cemetery of tombstones. Other sections had weed so thick it had compacted to look like rock until a prod indicated its spongy texture. The bauxite cliffs glowed in the sunlight.

Bauxite cliffs at Boyd Bay

A towboat arrived with a work platform from Weipa – it was taken around the corner south, so hopefully that means the new wharve won’t actually be in this bay.

During the afternoon a fire became evident in the bush we had walked yesterday. It strengthened during the next few hours, the wind covering our clean boat with ash. Ash even settled in my glass of wine! Guys from the barge had gone over to the area and we can see the lights of their vehicles in the smoke - ? monitoring or managing.

Emails today from a work colleague alerted me to new regulations for nurses in Pap smear provision, which I am unable to meet due to leave. Nor do I agree with these regulations so am feeling sad, annoyed and worried. I feel everything I have worked so hard to achieve experience wise in nursing is being taken away.

Chris admiring the view at Boyd Bay

Thursday 28^th July: the fire on the shore cliffs appears to have burnt itself out, or is now further away.

Since travelling I have been experiencing increasing nighttime sciatica, which Tony blames on the bed’s foam mattress (I miss my regular massages). While in Weipa we ordered a new spring mattress but delivery was delayed by the Cairns Show holiday so we left, only to find out it arrived in Weipa the next day. Byron thinks he may be able to deliver it to us in his boat on Saturday, so we will sit and wait.

Another fire inland south is obvious and ash continues to float our way. While watching the resultant fiery sunset we glimpsed our first dugong in the Gulf.

Unusual rocky reef in Boyd Bay

Friday 29^th July: Late morning we walked along another section of beach and through the bush burnt on Wednesday - only the undergrowth of long grass appeared to have been burnt.

A long stretch of the beach was covered in masses of weed dumped by last night’s high tide and swell. Scattered throughout were sea slugs, looking like snails without shells, which I have never seen before. One was the size of my hand. Also known as sea hares, they are usually found on the algae upon which they feed. Unfortunately most appeared dead but a few were moving where the weed was still wet. Tide exposed sand had a number of nice shells inhabited by hermit crabs – though I find them delightful, I would have liked the murex to have been uninhabited!

Sea slug on beach at Boyd Bay

The landing barge was also stranded on the shore by the out-going low tide and we meet Rueben the cook as he waited with others for the water to float their vessel. The new wharf will be built further south and will service ships larger than those that visit Weipa. He explained the purpose of the large motor catamaran we have seen on a number of occasions – ‘Sharp Shooter’ is responsible for monitoring Indonesian fishing vessels and divers dive on the reefs to remove their tangled nets.

Interestedly we have seen no crocodiles here but plenty of large fish around the boat.
We plan to travel further south tomorrow.

Coast to the north of Boyd Bay

Weipa

Innovative entrance to (now derelict) house at Roberts Ck settlement

Monday 11^th July: we motored 2kms across the Embley River into Weipa to find a new anchorage and were disappointed. The area near the public jetty was full with local boats on moorings; we did find a spot but the swell was so big it was difficult to enter/exit the dinghy without banging into Nysa, and hitting another boat was a possibility if conditions changed. We telephoned the people we know locally: Greg, a fisherman and Byron, a police detective, but neither knew of any alternative sites that did not dry out at low tide. We aborted and returned to Roberts Creek where we were last night. Though this is calm, it is a long way across the river in the dinghy (particularly when it is rough) to carry everything we need to obtain – groceries, fuel, water. It is also swarming with insects, requiring all screens up. At least Nysa no longer crackles.

As our shopping plans were unable to eventuate, Tony commenced working on the cockpit roof instead. I became frustrated with the internet, which is very slow and keeps dropping out – reconnecting with the world is going to take a while.

"Nysa" at anchor in Roberts Creek

Tuesday 12^th July: Weipa has a population of about 3,500 and is the world’s largest bauxite mine. For us it provides the added advantage of Sarah (a nurse Tony and I have both worked with in Cairns) and her husband Byron who have been living in Weipa since last October with Mitchell 2yrs and Jake 1. After a rough trip across the river at 8.30am, Byron picked us up at the boat ramp so we could borrow their ute. The foreshore is bauxite rock, and the rough seas with large tide differences means securing the dinghy requires a bit of muscle pulling it up the boat ramp. We are very grateful for the loan of the car as the township is 5kms away. A massive shopping expedition involved 2 trips to Woolworths, the post office for exciting internet ordered parcels and mail (only the second we have received since leaving Cairns), plus the hardware shop for things to fix the broken bits & pieces. Thankfully Woolworths has a good variety of produce and I did not find it overally expensive – 4 trolley loads amounted to $1000 but we have been travelling a long time and needed a major re-stock. We are storing everything at Sarah and Byron’s, slowly bringing it back to Nysa as space on the dinghy allows. After our first long hot shower since leaving home, a very yummy “fresh food” dinner was enjoyed with the family before heading back to Nysa prior to dark. Luckily the water was calmer, the sun was a massive red ball sinking into the horizon and a large flock of frigate birds soared overhead. We had left Zowie on board all day and at our arrival back at 6.30pm it was obvious she was rather distressed – obviously forgotten what it is like for us to go to work!

Wednesday 13^th July: 2 dolphins swam past Nysa this morning and a crocodile was on a mud flat as we passed in the dinghy. On arrival at the other side we saw that one of the local catamarans had broken it’s mooring and was high and dry on the foreshore rocks. We felt for the owner working on the damaged hull, and though the dinghy travel is proving a bit of a nightmare, we are pleased we moved to the calmer creek.

Derelict house at Roberts Creek settlement

Taking Zowie with me, I spent most of the day at Sarah’s using her wonderful automatic washing machine – being anchored in rivers has not allowed sufficient water production for washing clothes and I had 4 big loads! Though Zowie was happier, Cody the German Shepherd and the kids still raised her stress levels. Tony spent the morning doing numerous trips across the river, refilling our tanks with jerry cans of water. This is extremely heavy, time consuming work and the trips got rougher each time as the winds increased. I am very concerned with the strain on Tony as he continues to lose weight and is increasingly exhausted at night.

Returning to Nysa we were surfing large waves that I felt would swamp the dinghy – each time it appeared imminent Tony would accelerate and manage to move away from that wave onto another. It was a relief when we arrived. As the sun was setting Tony saw through the binoculars that the damaged catamaran had been refloated and was at the ramp being removed from the water, no doubt for more extensive repairs.

Interesting sign on house at Roberts Creek

Thursday 14^th July: we are having a rest from the tribulations of visiting Weipa. During breakfast the 2 dolphins swam past again, a crocodile swam in the opposite direction and the frigate birds, looking like prehistoric pteranodons, soared overhead. Tony finished working on the roof while we both haggled with the internet. While Tony becomes gaunter, my body shape is increasingly matronly pudgy – I am not doing the hard labour like Tony and am simply not getting enough exercise : sitting for most of the day travelling/sewing/reading/writing does not even equate to the walking I did at work. I am concerned as I am now in the ‘at risk’ range.

Friday 15^th July: the winds are 25-35 knots and the sky overcast so we stayed on Nysa. Tony spent most of the day slowly downloading photos onto the blog, when the internet intermittently worked, and installing our new VHF radio.

What would this small kiln be used for?

We are anchored just inside the mouth of the creek. At high tide we are approximately 50 metres from the shore – at low, 20 metres. It is fairly calm despite the wind, and if conditions worsened, we could go further along the creek, which we share with a number of local boats: a large 50 foot houseboat with occupants, a large and small monohull and 2 small power boats unoccupied.

Saturday 16^th July: 3 good things happened today:

1. Tony went across to the boat ramp early to collect more water. On his return he noticed water inside the dinghy – not from a leaking container but from the hull which has a split, probably damaged by banging on the rocks at the foreshore when heavily loaded. At least he did not sink!
2. Being in Weipa with a split hull is possibly the best place we can be in the circumstances. Very helpful Byron is going to find someone who can do a welding repair and then we only have to get the dinghy to there!?!?
3. After this discovery, Tony took Zowie to the shore for a quick toilet stop. On their return to Nysa the water containers were still on the top step. When Zowie jumped onto this step, there must have been insufficient room and she slipped, falling into the water (it had to happen eventually). Zowie started to swim away from the boat (perhaps taken by the current) but luckily a distraught Tony was able to grab her from the dinghy before she drowned or became a breakfast.

The leaking hull changed our  plans to visit town, so we stayed on Nysa: winds 20-30knots and still overcast. Tony did general maintenance on the engine and generator.

Late afternoon, after bailing out the dinghy, we visited the nearby land at the creek’s mouth. A number of caucasians lived here in the past – there are a few boat wrecks remaining on shore with pieces of equipment and 3 grave stones belonging to a shipwright, boilermaker and fisherman/crocodile hunter, all buried in the early 1990s, aged mid 60-70. Nearby is a fenced area with dogs – hopefully someone is caring for them? Further along were the derelict remains of a community that had been well set up with windmills for bore water, louvred houses and work sheds.

Evans Landing anchorage on a calm day

Zowie recently started chasing small crabs across the sand, and today, for the first time, she was sniffing at holes and trying to dig them out. A nip on the nose will be her just reward.

The sky was too dull for a sunset, so we had a drink and watched a large fire that seemed to be on the outskirts of town.

Sunday 17^th July: Tony is unsurprisingly not feeling well so is tinkering at a slower pace (or so he says). At least the sun has reappeared. Byron and Sarah very nicely brought our remaining groceries out to Nysa on route fishing, and then returned for morning tea – their assistance has been wonderful.

Late afternoon Russell and Lisa from the houseboat asked us for dinner with Rob and Aya from the small 8 metre monohull. Russell (an ex-barramundi fisherman) and Lisa (ex-teacher) now work for the mine. The dogs on the mainland are their’s for pig hunting. Earlier in the day we had watched Russell sink large tree branches and car axles near his mooring – I had suggested he was making an artificial reef and I was right – he wants to attract fish! They travel to and from Weipa in 2 very large dinghies, better suited to the rough conditions and faster than ours.

 Rob and Aya have a property on Kangaroo Island – mainly bush with rammed earth and mud brick houses they have built, powered entirely by solar panels. Rob spent 20 years working winters on camel treks across the Gibson Desert and they currently work on Aboriginal communities each December/January. After buying the yacht in Weipa just recently, they plan to live on it during the winters. In summer, the yacht will go on the hardstand. In a previous 40 foot monohull they spent 3 years sailing across the Top and down the WA coast to Shark Bay.

Monday 18^th July: Tony contacted the welder recommended through Byron’s investigations and he could fix the dinghy this morning. Unfortunately this meant a very bouncy wet trip across the river – I imagine the movement we experienced was similar to riding a bucking horse – not pleasant. Though the journey only takes 10-15 minutes, it can be ‘the trip from hell.’ With Byron’s assistance we got the dinghy into the ute and to the welder who only charged $55; much cheaper than we were expecting but he may have felt sorry for us as he had difficulty with the welding and is not confident it will last.

At least the water was calmer in the afternoon when we travelled back.

Poor Tony had the symptoms of a cold during all this rough riding and manual handling. However, though he had another day of hard work, he stays upbeat while I feel like I am emotionally crumbling. I would really like a holiday.

Tuesday 19^th July: to town again for Tony’s venesection at the GP service based at the hospital. Gave me a chance to peruse the local pottery shop and community centre.

A large school of bait fish have taken residence under Nysa. When the tide changes and Nysa swings to face another direction, the school becomes a long ‘tail’ floating out from the stern. The water behind us then becomes a whirl of splashes as larger fish feed on the vulnerable bait fish until they can resettle.

At low tide the nearby mud bank is a bird-watcher’s dream. Today we have had the added pleasure of watching 2 jabirus that are large majestic birds. Chasing fish, they run and jump on their long red stilt legs, flapping their wings and really look like ballerinas dressed in feathers. One fish’s escape attempt was to continuing keep jumping out of the water like a bouncing stone, with the jabiru flapping and pouncing behind.